Map
Sensor :
The Map Sensor should
be located in the engine bay away from any direct heat , and it should
also be mounted higher than the injector locations so as to not have any
fuel run down the vacuum line and kill the sensor. The vacuum line should
be connected to a constant vacuum source such as the inlet plenum , or
a place where it gets a vacuum signal from all rotors or cylinders. If
the vacuum line is connected to the inlet manifold where it only gets a
signal from one runner, that signal will be very erratic and it will pulse.
This will make tuning very difficult due to the constantly varying vacuum
reading. A good place on the 13BT motor is the bottom vacuum port
near the Throttle Position Sensor on the intake plenum as seen below. This
port is the best to use because it has little or no pulsing which gives
a more consistent tune.
Connect MAP sensor to bottom port.
It is a good idea to also run your boost
gauge and the fuel pressure regulator from the same source. That
way all components read exactly the same signal.
Coolant Temperature Sensor
:
The Coolant Sensor is a bit tougher to
install. You may need to drill and tap a 3/8"NPT-18 thread to screw
it into. It should be located before the thermostat , but in the housing
for it. If you mount it the wrong side the actual engine water temperature
will be different to that of which the sensor is reading. The picture below
shows where to mount it on a 13B Turbo , but a similar place should be
used for all engines. The OEM sensor can be used in most cases, however
it may not read 100% as accurate as the supplied Haltech sensor.
You can now order your Haltech kits with a sensor the same thread as the
OEM sensor. Ask for this at the time of purchase.
Mounted
below the thermostat
Air Temperature Sensor :
The
Air Temperature Sensor should be located in the air stream of the inlet
manifold , but away from any ambient heat that will disrupt the readings.
If you are running a turbo engine then it should be mounted after the intercooler.
The next picture below shows the correct locating point for a 13B Turbo
engine. It is a good idea to not run any OEM air temperature sensors,
rather install the Haltech sensor which will read very accurately.
Try not to install the air temperature sensor in the intake manifold close
to the motor as the heat from the manifold will give erratic readings.
A thread of 1/4"GAS-18 is used for this
sensor.
Air
Temperature Sensor and TPS mounting
Throttle Position Sensor
: (Or TPS)
This is a tricky one , as you will no
doubt have to make a bracket to hold the TPS body still. The throttle shaft
may also have to be modified to properly interface with the sensor. The
inner section of the TPS should rotate with the throttle shaft , and this
should happen the instant the throttle shaft is rotated. There should be
absolutely no play in the shaft to sensor movement. If there is you will
never eliminate slight stumbles when you drive and first touch the throttle.
Any movement with the throttle should coincide with movement of the sensor.
Do now worry about zero-ing the sensor yet , as this is done in the programming
software. But be sure that the sensor does not inhibit the throttle shaft
movement or it may jam the throttle open. Also be sure to mount it to the
primary throttle and not a secondary throttle. See the picture below of
the TPS on a 13B Turbo. Most OEM Throttle Position Sensors
can be used with the Haltech if they are of the variable resistor type
and not just a switch.
Fuel
Injectors
The Fuel injectors are rather easy to
wire up. They will all use a common 12V power source which is provided
in the loom as a Red wire. This wire will need to be connected to one pin
of the injector. The other pin of each injector will go to the INJ1,2,3,4
wires. For what we have here with the 13B which runs a staged injection
system, we will need to run INJ1 and INJ2 to the lower pair of injectors
(primary) and run INJ3 and INJ4 to the upper pair of injectors (secondary).
The systems works whereby the primary injectors operate all of the time,
and the secondary injectors only turn on under certains conditions, such
as under boost. The load point at which these injectors cut in is programmable
in the Fuel Setup page.
For other engines the wiring will be slightly
different. For a 4-cylinder engine used in Multipoint mode you can
run any INJ wire to any injector. In Batch Fire mode you can can the INJ
wires as follows :
| Haltech | Rotor |
| INJ1 | Rotor1 Pri |
| INJ2 | Rotor2 Pri |
| INJ3 | Rotor1 Sec |
| INJ4 | Rotor2 Sec |
| Haltech | Cylinder |
| INJ1 | 1 |
| INJ2 | 4 |
| INJ3 | 3 |
| INJ4 | 2 |
Ignition
--- E6S and E6K ---
The wiring of the
ignition system is where most people find things difficult. If you
are unsure what to do then please email HITman.
On the Mazda rotary
engines , the easiest to setup and one of the best ignition systems you
can use , is the standard OEM ignition that you can find on any 13B Turbo
engine from Mazda. If you are running it then there is no real need to
upgrade it unless you are making huge amounts of power at high boost and
spark energy is a concern. To wire it up with a Haltech E6K or E6S
you need to do the following :
NOTE : This is for the Series 4 / 5 (2nd Gen FC) components. The Series 6 (3rd Gen.) will be covered later.
CRANK
ANGLE SENSOR
The wiring for the
Crank Angle Sensor ( CAS ) is fairly straight forward.
From the Haltech loom you will see a thick , shielded cable with 4 coloured
wires inside (Yellow, Green, Blue, Red). The Grey/Red wire and the
Black wire are not used on the standard Mazda CAS due to it being a Reluctor
type pickup which does not need a power and earth. The shielded cable
should be routed to the CAS and wired up as follows :
| CAS | Haltech | Haltech
USA
Some wiring looms |
Purpose |
| Red | Yellow | White | Main Trigger +ve |
| Green | Green | Green | Home Trigger +ve |
| White | Red | Red | Main Trigger -ve |
| White/Black | Blue | Black | Home Trigger -ve |
Turn the crankshaft so the Yellow Mark on the pulley lines up with the timing pointer as pictured below. This is not TDC, it is 5ATDC (-5BTDC).
Insert the CAS in either of the two methods below.
Hitman's "Dont know what I am doing" install method Use Tooth Offset 3 Trigger Angle ~65 |
Factory Mazda install. Use Tooth Offset 11 Trigger Angle ~ 65 |
Once this is done
the ignition setup needs to be done with your laptop. With the ignition
power on and the Haltech online set the following in Ignition Setup
:
E6K
| Trigger Input | Int. Reluctor |
| Trigger Gain | 2 |
| Home Input | Int. Reluctor |
| Home Gain | 2 |
| Trigger Angle | 65 (Base) |
| Trigger Type | Multitooth |
| Number of Teeth | 24 |
| Tooth Offset | 3 or 11 |
| Spark Mode | Distributor |
| Engine Type | Rotary |
| Output Type | Constant Charge |
| Coil Charge Time | 4.5ms |
| Output Edge | Falling |
The system will ask for you to power off and back on. This is to reset the E6 to the new settings. Once done hit <ALT-S> to bring up the Setup Menu then go down to Input/Output Setup. Now go to Aux. Output and select Ign. Toggle with the <TAB> key then hit Enter. This enables the correct firing of the Mazda Trail ignitor. Even though the ignition system is a Direct Fire type, this particular setup must be set to Distributor Mode to make the Trail coils fire correctly. An incorrect setting here will cause Trail 2 to not fire.
E6S
The
E6S should be set to the same values , except the E6S does not have the
adjustable Reluctor Adapter built in , it has a fixed unit. So in place
of the Trigger and Home Inputs , it has Trigger and Home EDGE values ,
which should be set to RISING for both.
When you look at
the E6S box, there is an end cap at the other end from the wiring connector.
It will have 4 phillips head (cross head) screws holding it down.
Undo these screw and remove the end plate. You will see a bank of
six DIP switches labelled 1 through 6 on the switch and A through F on
the circuit board. These are used to enable the internal Reluctor
Adapters if you wish to use them, otherwise external units will be required.
To enable the Reluctor Adapters switches A,B,C, and D should be DOWN, switch
E should be UP (DOWN if used for Motronic triggers), and switch F should
be UP (down for 5V O2 sensors).
Ignition
Coils
The Mazda ignition
coils are just as easy to wire up. They have the ignitor modules
with the ignition coils mounted above and already wired , so there is very
little to do. The Trail coil pack runs an abnormal ignition system
whereby the ignitor is pulsed by the computer for each time it needs to
spark , then it has a "toggle" system which tells the ignitor whether to
fire Trail 1 or 2. This wire will be turned on to fire one coil , then
turned off when the other coil is to get the spark. This system is supported
by the E6K and E6S systems (E6S Firmware 23 or higher). The coils should
be wired as follows:
| Lead Coil | Haltech | Purpose |
| Tan | - - - - - | Ignition Switched 12V+ve |
| Pink | Light Green | Ignition Trigger - Lead (IGN-OUT) |
| Trail Coils | ||
| Tan (Two Wires) | - - - - - | Ignition Switched 12V+ve |
| Pink | White / Black | Ignition Trigger - Trail (AUXOUT-1) |
| White | Black / Green | Toggle (BYPASS)
Aux. Output |
| Yellow | - - - - - | Tacho for Series 4/5 RX-7 |
Zero the Ignition Timing
- VERY IMPORTANT TO DO !
The purpose of "zeroing" the
ignition timing is to make sure that the ignition timing values you read
on the Haltech are the same as what the actual ignition timing value is
on the crankshaft. To make sure they both match up you need zero them.
This should be done especially if you have downloaded one of my MAPS from
this webpage. The MAPS are supplied with the fuel and ignition graphs
done but you will still need to set up the ignition settings to suit your
hardware.
To "zero" the ignition timing there are a few steps involved, although it is a rather easy process and a timing light is required. if you do not have a timing light then go out right now and purchase one. It is a tool that every modified car owner should have. With the timing light connected to Lead 1 spark plug lead, start the engine and also have the Haltech system online on your laptop. Now go to the Ignition Setup page and you will see the Timing Lock feature. This feature is not normally visable unless you have the Haltech system online. The Timing Lock should be set to ON. A new setting underneath will come up with a value at which to lock the ignition timing. For most engines there is a TDC mark (O degrees) so this value can be set to zero. Whatever there are marks for measuring timing you can set this value into the Timing Lock and check the timing lines up. For the 13B Turbo engine we have here there are two marks on the crank as pictured previously. One is Yellow and signifies 5 ATDC (-5 degrees) and the other mark is Orange and is at 20 ATDC (-20 degrees). The timing lock must be set to -5 and with the timing light check that the Yellow marker lines up with the pointer. If it does not then the Trigger Angle value will need to be altered. If you need to retard the timing to make it line up you should increase the Trigger Angle value. If you need to Advance the timing to make it line up then decrease the Trigger Angle value. The same adjustments can be made for any engine type. Once the mark lines up you can now go and turn the Timing Lock to OFF.
For a rotary engine you should also connect the timing light to the Trail-1 and Trail-2 spark plug wires. With the timing light connected to Trail-1 check to see if the timing notches on the crank pulley are roughly near the pointer. If they are not and are out 180° (i.e. the Trail-2 marks are near the pointer) then you have either the Trail leads back to front or you have the crank angle sensor 90° out of phase.
NOTE FOR SERIES 6 ENGINES -
the
timing check process for these engines is a little different. Some
models of E6S and E6K are not adjustable for the timing lock, and some
that are cannot be locked to -20 degrees to line up the single notch these
motors have at 20ATDC.
The easy way is to lock the timing at
-5 and check the timing with the light on T1. This should be firing
at -20BTDC (20ATDC) and should line up with the notch directly.
The other way for E6S owners to do this
check is to cheat a little. Start the engine and lock the timing
at 10 degrees, this is the default timing lock number for all Haltech systems.
Now with a timing light connected to Lead 1 spark plug lead, check where
the mark on the disc lines up. By adjusting the Trigger Angle value
make the notch line up with the pointer, remembering that increasing the
value retards the ignition and increasing it advances the ignition timing.
The engine will die down a bit at this retarded ignition which is normal
for now. Once the notch lines up turn the Timing Lock to OFF. Look
at your Trigger Angle value and now subtract 30 and enter the new number.
For example if the timing lined up at 95 degrees, then a new value of 65
degrees should be entered. Now you are done with zeroing
the timing. If you are confused you can email HITman
and we will try to answer your questions.
Ignition
--- F9 ---
This is much easier
to wire as the ECU does not control ignition timing. Simply
run the Grey wire to the ignition coil +ve side and run the brown wire
to the ignition coil -ve side. If you have any difficulties with
erratic rpm readings then some adjustments will need to be made.
As with the E6S above, the black end cap of the ECU must be removed and
inside are a bank of DIP switches. These are used to configure the voltages
for the rpm pickup of the ECU. Only change them if you are experiencing
problems. Switches 2 and 3 turn on and off the filters and these
should be the only switches you will need to move. Find the combination
that gives the cleanest rpm readings.
Wiring
Wiring the rest
of the system is easy , and I will cover it one day. All that is
basically needed is to follow the instructions in the manual. The only
slightly confusing point for most people is the wiring of the fuel pump
relay. In fact it is already wired and relayed. The two orange wires that
you have to connect are very simple to do. One of them ( any one ) goes
to the battery +ve terminal as it must have constant 12V , and the other
orange wire goes to your fuel pump +ve. The other terminal on your fuel
pump goes to earth.
You will also have
a thick Red and a thick Black wire. These will go direct to the battery
with the Red going to the Positive + side and the Black going to
the Negative - side. There is also a grey
wire that should go to a 12V source that is switched by the ignition key.
A good place is where the ignition coils get their power.
* NOTE : On the US models the injector 12V +ve wire is sometimes a 13AWG PINK wire , not RED as indicated in the manual.