13B Turbo Setup Tips
This setup page is for those who have a 1986-1991 RX-7 Turbo 13B engine. Below are sample MAPS for Haltech F9 and E6-A EFI systems that will run those engines quite well. Also there are tips for extracting a little more power , economy and drivability from the engine , along with how to identify the different types of 13B Turbo engines from each other. More pictures as I can get them.
What is the difference ?   Series 4 or 5 ?
Series 4 is 1986 - 1988.   Series 5 is 1989-1991.
First of off before we get into the nitty-gritty of playing with these engines , you need to be able to identify which model it is that you have , as there are a few differences. The most obvious of which are the external differences which are the easiest to distinguish , and I will cover them first.
Easiest to see is the water thermostat housing ( water neck ) which on the Series 4 engine is cast alloy with a small radiator cap built in. The Series 5 is black plastic and has no cap. Next up is where the knock sensor is located , which on the series 5 is located directly above the trail spark plug on the front rotor , where you will see threaded sections, and the Series 4 one is located near the oil filler pipe , and has no threaded sections above the trail spark plugs.
Next easiest to see is the intercooler differences. The front inlet pipe on the intercooler was flaired out a bit on the late Series 4 (1988 and on ) and all Series 5 engines.  The Series 5, however ,  does not have the air-bypass hose feeding into the intercooler that the Series 4 does , on the rear turbo side.

Series 4 Intercooler - 1. Air bypass port  2. Non-flaired inlet

There are many other differences in the throttle body , but you need to start pulling the engine apart to find them. There are also quite a few mechanical changes done to the Series 5 as well , which make it the more desirable engine. Now we will look at them.
The Series 5 received lighter rotors with a higher compression ratio , and hence different counter-balance weights. The Series 5 also runs a larger turbo with dual wastegate flaps. It has a 1.0 A/R exhaust housing where-as the Series 4 has a 0.88 A/R. Compressors are very similar.  Physically if you put the two next to each other the Series 4 has a flat-ish look to the exhaust housing , the Series 5 has a more bulbous look.

Series 4 Turbo - Flat looking small exhaust

Series 5 Turbo - Larger exhaust housing

The Series 5 also has larger diameter inlet runners ( though from the outside the inlet manifolds look the same) , and larger port tunnels , but I am sure they run the same actual port timing. Both engines run the 2mm Apex seals. The Series 5 overall makes about 28HP more.
In other words : Get a Series 5 engine if you can afford it.

Modifications
This is the part I know you have been waiting for. You want more power from your engine to beat that darn V8 guy up the road who keeps hassling you... right ?  Well here it is...

Stocker :  Leave the bloody thing alone. If you start playing with it too much you are going to break it. I would recommend lifting the boost ever so slightly to around 9psi , get a 3" exhaust system , and maybe a bigger air filter if you must....  If you want more than you should look at a rebuild to start with.

Getting a rebuild :  Go the extra and option for the older 3mm apex seals. They handle more abuse than do the 2mm standard seals. You will have to obviously have your rotors machined to fit. Go for a SMALL port job. Drop the exhaust around 2mm in a "D" shape. Raise the inlet ports around 3mm. You can raise the exhaust port a fraction , but this will tend to give you more top-end power at the expense of bottom-end. The porting in general is good for around 10% more top-end power. More so with larger turbos.
Having the larger seals will allow slightly higher boost pressures more reliably. Now you can push roughly 11psi through the engine , but I would be now looking at aftermarket EFI systems to control everything as the OEM computer was designed for one thing - an OEM engine.

The real secret to getting more power is upsizing the turbo to something that can flow the gases like a rotary deserves. Read further down to get an idea on what to get.

Engine Management
When you start pushing more from your engine than the manufacturer intended , you should look at doing a custom Engine Management System. As I have already stated , if your engine is standard then standard computer is best. If you have modified the engine you need something else. Now I wouldn't be a good dealer if I didn't push the Haltech systems... They are a brilliant system to run on these engines , and I have tuned around 50 of them on 13B Turbo engines alone. There are also a few choices to make when selecting one. Do you want to do the cheap and easy way , such as when you put a 13B Turbo engine in , say , an RX-3 , and run a fuel-only system? Or do you go all the way and do the fuel / ignition setup , which is not cheap , but does give the results ?
Fuel Only : Going the fuel-only route will almost certainly mean running a distibutor , although I have seen a few systems run with the OEM computer controlling ignition , but these do not work too well. Running a distributor from a Series 2 or 3 RX-7 12A engine is usually the go , and they run quite well. They do not though have any form of retard mechanism for boost conditions. If you retard the timing enough to prevent pinging it will be too retarded off boost and feel very sluggish. The answer is to get ahold of the distributor from the 12A Turbo EFI engine. These have a boost retard setup in the vacuum advance diaphrams , and can be recognised by prutruding 8mm nuts on the diaphrams themselves. The non-turbo distributors do not have these screws. You should also connect these diaprams via vacuum hose to the middle port on the inlet manifold as per the picture below.

This port "should" have vacuum/boost from it only when the throttle is opened. When closed it should shut off the port and no apparent vacuum should come from it. You can test this by connecting a vacuum or boost gauge to the port with the engine idling and it should read ZERO. When you open the trottle slightly you should get a reading. The idea of using this is to allow the vacuum advance to work when cruising , but not to over advance the ignition when at idle.  Try it and see the difference.
The top port should be blocked and the bottom port can be used for a boost meter, MAP sensor, or fuel pressure regulator.

    Download Haltech F9 ( fuel only ) Map for : 13B Turbo

Fuel Ignition: Now we are talking , this is the way it should be done. Running ignition control will let you run more boost more reliably , get better emissions , better economy , and more importantly , POWER !   It is best to run the standard crank-trigger along with the standard ignition coils. The standard ignition coils do, though, use ignitors which require the ECU to send a dwell time. I peronally run ignitors which control their own dwell. The next problem is the Trail Coil-Pack which runs a toggle input to control which coil gets fired. Now there are not many computers out there which fire the coils as Mazda intended , which is via Lead Coil Waste Spark arrangement. This means that the Lead Coil is a dual-post coil which sends out a spark to both Lead spark plugs every time just the one spark plug requires it. One spark does the combustion while the other rotor just fires into the exhaust cycle , doing nothing but cleaning up afterwards. Getting an ECU that not only runs these coils but also offers Trail Split Timing is near impossible. The newer Haltech E6S and better still , the E6K,  run these factory ignition coils straight out of the box , along with 64 position mapable Trail timing split.

    Download Haltech E6K MAP for : 13B Turbo (3-Bar MAP sensor , stock motor)
 

Turbo
If you really want some more power from your 13B engine , then the best way of doing it is to install a larger turbo. A good sized T04 turbo will add incredible amounts of power , and added reliability through reduced heat load. Look for a T04 with a P-Trim exhaust and 1.0 or 1.15 A/R , and a 60-1 compressor in an A/R 0.70 cover. Running the same amount of boost you should expect around 30% gains in power !

  Large turbo on a Series 5 motor
 
 

I hope to add more to this section in the near future. Check back occasionally and remember to hit RELOAD.