ECU Selection
:
These
engines are quite straight forward to tune , and just about any aftermarket
ECU can do the job. I prefer the Haltech F9A fuel-only computer due
to its high level of load adjustment, and run the factory distributor.
Download Haltech F-9 V4.9 MAP for : 12A Turbo
Injectors :
The
12A Turbo engine runs some of the largest injectors available from an OEM.
At 800cc/min they are capable of handling a few mods to the motor but if
you go too far you will require more fuel. 800cc may be big but it only
has two of them. Two more injectors can be mounted to the outside
of the secondary runners of the inlet manifold, but it would be a good
idea to get an expert to do this.
Ignition :
The
OEM distributor on the 12A Turbo is unique in that it is the only rotary
distributor that Mazda produced that incorporates a boost retard mechanism.
Leave it all standard and run the ignition timing as per what the timing
marks say. If you advance it any more than stock you can pick up power
, but the risk of detonation is quite great with these engines. Run NGK
B9EGV spark plugs in these engines. If you want to go for a better ignition
system, run the Haltech E6K computer along with the ignition system from
the 13B Turbo Series 4 / 5 RX7. It produces a much stronger spark and allows
adjustment of the ignition timing so it can be tailored to the motor.
Turbo
and Boost Levels
Boost Level :
Standard
boost level is 6psi. Due to the lack of an intercooler and the standard
2 x 800cc injectors , PLEASE limit yourself to around 9psi. If you push
more standard you are certain to blow up the engine. With an intercooler
you can just get around 11psi ,but I would consider 10psi a lot safer until
you get more fuel into the motor.
How a customer has ducted
his intercooler.
Turbo :
The
standard turbo is way too small. It is a bottleneck in the scheme of things
and should be removed and replaced with something larger. A turbo from
the Series 4 13B Turbo engines is a good choice. Boost response is still
as good , but expect around 30% power gains when running the same boost.
The 13B Turbo is water-cooled as well and will run much cooler, whereas
the OEM 12A Turbo is just oil-cooled. You will need to manufacture a new
exhaust manifold to suit. If you want more power and have a little money
to spend , a T04 turbo with an H3 or 60-1 compressor mated to a P-Trim
turbine in a 0.88 housing will do wonders for power. By this stage you
should be looking to upgrade to a fuel/ignition computer , big intercooler
, more injectors, and higher flowing inlet system.